Marni forgoes its signature prints for high-impact block colour and lean, clean lines.
When Phoebe Philo and Raf Simons fever took hold of the cognoscenti, it seemed that Marni would have to step out of the spotlight for a while. It's true that the label no longer commands the fanatical cult following among the front-rowers that it used to - although what's the betting the fash-ed count will be sky-high when the Marni collection launches in H&M in a couple of weeks? How did she bring it in on budget? Or will it be the loss-leader bargain of the century? Consuelo Castiglioni laughed when I asked her backstage. "I can only say H&M is amazing. Their factories, their sourcing... I was really surprised. The only things we couldn't do were jacquards and fur."