Milan Fashion Week: Raoul autumn/winter 2012

The montage of classic Sixties films that had been spliced together for the Raoul presentation in its elegant new showroom was enough to keep fashion editors entertained for hours. Belle de Jour , Darling , Two for the Road , Goldfinger , The Party ...spotting and naming the mini segments could become a new form of ultra-chic pub quiz. This is a label that knows and reveres its Sixties iconography.The spring collection paid early homage to the glory years of air hostesses, and there's no danger this winter of straying too far from the Sixties. But this time the focus is on the paying jet-set crowd.


That means less that strict uniform influence, and more variety and softness. Block-printed, flared shift dresses, with patches of metallic leather are an evolution from block coloured, although there was plenty of that in the guise of more fluid silk dresses in cream, black and either antique rose-pink or mint.
Outerwear is an increasingly big deal at Raoul, too, with black and orange tweed coats, cropped sheepskin jackets or longer sheepskin tunics conceived as a day-to-night, poolside-to-chillier-kerbside layer over the floaty, high-necked floral chiffon maxi dresses.

 
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