Paul Surridge's Bridget Riley-loud patterns on high-lapelled suits, grilled white leather bags (great for cat transport) and square-pocketed shorts were "fashion" in the tradition of Prada and Jil Sander, but often sportily practical too.
VERSACE
Absolutely ridiculous, this show was among the campest I've ever seen and featured models wearing those boxing belts, gladiator sandals and brief budgie-smugglers galore. But there was method in Versace's madness - next summer it launches new swimming and underwear lines.
Sock-rating: only with sandals for evening wear.
Absolutely ridiculous, this show was among the campest I've ever seen and featured models wearing those boxing belts, gladiator sandals and brief budgie-smugglers galore. But there was method in Versace's madness - next summer it launches new swimming and underwear lines.
Sock-rating: only with sandals for evening wear.
MOSCHINO
Presumably Moschino's lawyers got permission from Coca-Cola, Budweiser and the many other commercial brands whose logos it gleefully ripped off in this irreverent collection held in an upscale Milan supermarket. If not, they may be getting some calls today. Excellent fun that turned mass consumption into classy clothes.
Sock-rating: there was a swordfish, but no socks.
Presumably Moschino's lawyers got permission from Coca-Cola, Budweiser and the many other commercial brands whose logos it gleefully ripped off in this irreverent collection held in an upscale Milan supermarket. If not, they may be getting some calls today. Excellent fun that turned mass consumption into classy clothes.
Sock-rating: there was a swordfish, but no socks.
MONCLER GAMME BLEU
A troupe of very sweaty On The Town tapdancers opened this nautically themed show. It featured cape-like coats made of sailing materials that were wierdly attached to the models' ankles with bungees, and worn over an evening suit.
Sock-rating: only the tapdancers
A troupe of very sweaty On The Town tapdancers opened this nautically themed show. It featured cape-like coats made of sailing materials that were wierdly attached to the models' ankles with bungees, and worn over an evening suit.
Sock-rating: only the tapdancers
GUCCI
The Gucci designer Frida Giannini often goes for the tight-trousered Italian stallion look, but this season she loosened up a little with Lapo Elkann-esque, quirkily colourful suiting and summer macintoshes, plus moccasins and mankles aplenty.
Sock-rating: not one to be seen.
The Gucci designer Frida Giannini often goes for the tight-trousered Italian stallion look, but this season she loosened up a little with Lapo Elkann-esque, quirkily colourful suiting and summer macintoshes, plus moccasins and mankles aplenty.
Sock-rating: not one to be seen.
PRADA
There were women in this Prada show, who wore fur coats (impractical for summer but beloved of the Chinese), burgundy suiting, Royal Tenenbaums headbands and white-piped vest tops that echoed the menswear. Androgynously unisex attire for fashion's deep thinkers.
Sock-rating: always - with sports sandals.
There were women in this Prada show, who wore fur coats (impractical for summer but beloved of the Chinese), burgundy suiting, Royal Tenenbaums headbands and white-piped vest tops that echoed the menswear. Androgynously unisex attire for fashion's deep thinkers.
Sock-rating: always - with sports sandals.
DOLCE & GABANNA
A particularly interesting show because it rejected models in favour of "real" Sicilians. The trousers and shorts were worryingly high-waisted at times, but the patterned polo shirts and suit jackets were excellent.
Sock-rating: the shoes were open at the side for added foot-flashing convenience. No socks with sandals.
A particularly interesting show because it rejected models in favour of "real" Sicilians. The trousers and shorts were worryingly high-waisted at times, but the patterned polo shirts and suit jackets were excellent.
Sock-rating: the shoes were open at the side for added foot-flashing convenience. No socks with sandals.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
The most colourful collection of all, this was entertaining to look at but might be difficult to wear. Sometimes mixing pistachio with sky blue, turquoise, yellow and plenty of orange all in one look, it worked most practically when the colour clashes were pared back a bit.
Sock rating: possibly there, beneath pulsatingly coloured trainers.
The most colourful collection of all, this was entertaining to look at but might be difficult to wear. Sometimes mixing pistachio with sky blue, turquoise, yellow and plenty of orange all in one look, it worked most practically when the colour clashes were pared back a bit.
Sock rating: possibly there, beneath pulsatingly coloured trainers.
GIORGIO ARMANI
Pleated trousers have long been about as edgy as Cliff Richard. Fashions, however, always come around again and yesterday's Giorgo Armani made a great case for a pleat pant renaissance. It makes sense, really, because the peak collared double breasted jacket shape that is on the rise really needs a bit of legroom around the thigh to look good top-to-toe.
Luke Leitch brings you the highs and the lows from Milan Men's Fashion Week spring/summer 2013.
Posted in: Milan Fashion Week,Spring-Summer
