Fashion designers now and then in pictures - 2

What a difference a decade makes: take a look back at what the fashion world's biggest players used to look like...

KARL LAGERFELD
German designer Karl Lagerfeld lost 100lbs in just ober a year back in 2001. "I suddenly wanted to dress differently, to wear clothes designed by Hedi Slimane," he said at the time. "But these fashions, modeled by very, very slim boys-and not men my age-required me to lose at least 40 kg. It took me exactly thirteen months." He has kept his slim frame ever since.

MARC JACOBS
Marc Jacobs was the epitome of the grungy collections he produces in the 90s. Following several stints in rehab, Jacobs is fit and toned at 49.

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
British designer Matthew Williamson has barely changed over the last fifteen years or so, only adding some facial embellishments to his look.

STELLA MCCARTNEY
Announced as French fashion house Chloe's new recruit in 1997, McCartney was just 26 years old. Now aged 40, she has build on her internationally successful eponymous label for over a decade.

TOM FORD
Ford is one of those gentlemen who becomes even more handsome with age. From his fresh-faced years at Gucci in the Nineties, he has since matured with some artfully grown stubble as he enters his sixth decade.

TOMMY HILFIGER
American sportswear designer Tommy Hilfiger has carved out a billion-dollar fashion empire over four decades, all while keeping his teeth extra pearly-white.

DAME VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Westwood grew from young eccentric, to erm, old eccentric. Her hairstyles from 1987 to present day might have changed numerous times over, but that smile is all hers.

GIORGIO ARMANI
Still taking a post-catwalk show bow aged 77, take a look at Mr Armani in the early Eighties.

 Fashion designers now and then in pictures - 1

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Paris Fashion Week: Stella McCartney autumn/winter 2012

Designer Stella McCartney excelled with feminine tailoring at Paris Fashion Week.

Schoolgirls, sportswear, and Savile Row were the stars - along with Sir Paul - at Stella McCartney's show this morning. Newly relocated to the chandelier-bestrewn Hotel de Ville, McCartney's opening phase centred around an elaborate leafy pattern (uncannily similar to that on the venue's magnificent curtains) that wended its several-shaded way across shoulders and down legs on tailored jackets, short skirts, mini-ruffed mini-dresses and baggy tailored trousers in purple, black and blue.

That pattern took over in richly blue on black jacquard trousers and jackets, then faded a little for some It-girl knitwear; a grey jumper with and oversized felted Aran effect on the front on some great long body hugging knit dresses in pink and grey worn under mannish blue cotton shirts.
A heavily sportswear-influenced section - that scrunchy scuba material, oddly-placed zippers, and athletics-style anatomical panels in different colours - and a long section of dresses and coats in tweed, sometimes greenish, sometimes greyish, with ribbed baseball jacket collar details followed.

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London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2012: Stella McCartney eveningwear show

British designer Stella McCartney invited her famous friends to a very special showing or her eveningwear collection in London's Mayfair.

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London Fashion Week: Trend round up

 Military Manoeuvres: McQ
Left to right: McQ and Burberry
Attention! For instant promotion up the fashion ranks, simply advance to your nearest army surplus store. For this long-standing masculine trend invaded womenswear this season, no more so than in McQ's opening section of two-toned soldier-girl outfits shot through with "Black Watch" tartan, ceremonially-high spit-and-polished boots and furry-epauletted submariner knits. After the uniform came some crazily over-the-top flower-strewn ballet dresses. LL
Will it work? Only for the brave: and don't be too literal.
Where else? Burberry, Belstaff, Christopher Raeburn, and the beavers at Temperley
4/5

 The Big Ball(sy) Skirt: Stella McCartney
Left to right: Stella McCartney and Giles
Swish, swish, swish, here come the skirts. How feminine, how flirty - and how modern, thanks to that larger-than-life marbling and obligingly architectural duchesse satin. This is the Mad Men Skirt for women who normally prefer something harder edged and just a bit arty. McCartney had other mould-breakers up her sleeves, too. Think lace is too twee ? Try a thick-as-crochet tangerine weave appliquéd onto a flesh-coloured mesh column dress and await the flashbulbs. Coming to a red carpet soon. LA
Will it work? Yes, this concept suits pretty much everyone, but you'll need a big ball(sy) heel. Ballerina length's the way to go.
Where else? Roksanda Ilincic, Giles, Emilia Wickstead, Mary Katrantzou
3/5

 The Big Knit: Jonathan Saunders
A generously-proportioned jumper that ends sub-buttock will a) keep you warm and b) act as a midwinter-mini. This a heady combo particularly well utilised in Jonathan Saunders' acid-coloured, Japanese-equestrian (it's a long story) collection, was one of this weeks finest. This big knit incorporated check, another strong trend in London. LL
Will it work? Everywhere, and for nothing: simply pinch a man's jumper and pin up the sleeves.
Where else? Christopher Kane (overlayed with mesh wires), Mary Katrantzou (embroidered with star-dust crystal) Mulberry (monstrous) and Acne (long and lime)
4/5

Brocade: Osman
Why should C18th fops have all the fun? We've secretly loved this fabric for years, so allow us a moment of joy because it's everywhere. And no one cuts a sharper pair of trousers than this man. If London can't quite decide whether to keep it skinny or experiment with a kick flare that starts at the knee, consider it a bonus. In the world's first parliamentary democracy, no one trouser shape should dominate. Let's hear it for proportional representation. LA
Will it work? Yes, in a similar way to marmite. You either love this or hate it. But however much you adore brocade, limit yourself to one piece at a time time. Keep the rest low-key and you can wear this day to night.
Where else? Michael van der Ham, Temperley, Kinder Aggugini
4/5

 Quilty Complex: Peter Pilotto
Keeping warm was on the brains of many, although not the poor loves risking hypothermia in their fashionable spring jackets. A pragmatic padded coat simply doesn't cut the street snappers' mustard - yet. Peter Pilotto's fabulously quilted printed jackets for next winter offered warmth and style in spades. Some were prettified with a little frilled hem, and teamed with cocktail dresses and convincingly sold as evening wear - music to the camera slaves' ears. PL
Will it work? Day time, night time - it will work overtime.
Where else? Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, JW Anderson
3.5/5

 Girls In Glasses: Paul Smith
Left to right: Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood
Boys don't make passes at girls who wear glasses. Not even if they're worn with as much vim as they were at Paul Smith? Bespectacled models in sharp tailor jackets and cigarette pants cut an appealing figure. Marc Jacobs and J Crew also sent out girls with four eyes instead of two in New York last week. Clearly, not seeing, um, clearly is cool. PL
Will it work? If your vision is less than 20/20.
Where else? Vivienne Westwood
3/5

 Leggings: Clements Ribeiro
Take a pair of normal hips then amplify them with padding. It shouldn't work but in Berardi's hands it looked elegant and oh so flattering. Dresses and jackets were padded with horse-hair and lined with silk chiffon (no animals were harmed in the making of these clothes, we were promised, although a few brains may have been sorely taxed: one dress comprised 78 pieces and every single seam on every garment was curved) This is how to wear a peplum - not as a Dallas-meets-Pat Butcher soggy tribute but as a piece of silky sculpture. LA

 he Longer Skirt: Roksanda Ilincic
Left to right: Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique

We're talking really long - not just below the knee, but right past the lower shin. That creates a lean sinuous line that brings to mind white Russian emigres or slinky Thirties illustrations from artists such as Christian Berard - unless they're Ilincic's full-circle skirts, which brings to mind pictures of the young Queen Elizabeth in the early Fifties. But Ilincic reared back from the precipice of parody by teaming her languid lengths with blouson tops or big glittery tweed blazers, and occasionally trimmed her pencil skirts with the deep ruffle hem that has become one of her trademarks. As usual, it's her colour mixes that intrigued: claret with deep violet or turquoise. LA
Will it work? Especially if you're tall and slender and game for a five-inch heel. Ilincic jacked her models up on canary-yellow ones and got herself a statement look.
Where else? Jonathan Saunders, Topshop, JW Anderson
3/5

 The Hip Replacement: Antonio Berardi
Take a pair of normal hips then amplify them with padding. It shouldn't work but in Berardi's hands it looked elegant and oh so flattering. Dresses and jackets were padded with horse-hair and lined with silk chiffon (no animals were harmed in the making of these clothes, we were promised, although a few brains may have been sorely taxed: one dress comprised 78 pieces and every single seam on every garment was curved) This is how to wear a peplum - not as a Dallas-meets-Pat Butcher soggy tribute but as a piece of silky sculpture. LA
Will it work? Yes, for those who like their Forties updated.
Where else? Stella McCartney, Mary Katrantzou, McQ, PPQ, Burberrry
4/5

 Winter florals: Erdem
 Floral is a spring-trend staple that tends to wither in winter. Not this time: Erdem was London's florist-in-chief via his trademark one-two of neatly-demure silhouettes heaped with flower upon flower upon flower. From the floral black lace overlays to the blurry 3D-effect (without the glasses on) turquoise and yellow on silk (with blue lace flowery, arms) this was a show to rival Chelsea. Even his shoes were flower bedecked. LL
Will it work? There's no reason why florals shouldn't be hardy fashion perennials.
Where else? Giles, Temperley London, Christopher Kane, McQ, Maarten Van Der Horst
3/5

A look from the Peter Pilotto autumn/winter 2012 show

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Style tips from the week’s best dressed: week 3, 2012

Need help putting a look together? We've rounded up the best-dressed girls of the week who can teach us a thing or two...

A sprinkle of fur can up-style any outfit
Furry accessories add a touch of glamour without having to change your whole outfit - perfect for grunge princesses like Zoe Kravitz.

Tights and open-toe sandals can be a winning formula
So long as your tights are thick and black and your sandals are chunky, statement platforms like Alexa's. Avoid stiletto heels at all costs.

Break the rules
Shoes for a cocktail party, cosy cardigan for the couch, sleeveless belted trench for the office, sunglasses for the beach and a beanie for the slopes. Sounds so wrong, but on Sarah Jessica Parker it's just SO right. Don't be afraid the mix up your options or your textures.

Channel the Twenties trend via the medium of accessories
Don't see yourself in a gold beaded flapper dress this season? Nod to the Gatsby Glamour trend sweeping the catwalks with a headband like Fearne Cotton.

A little leopard goes a long way
Just ask Kate Moss, whose classic '60s vibe leopard print coat lends her otherwise unremarkable outfit an instant rock 'n' roll edge.

If it's see through, give them something to look at
We love the way that budding actress Kelsey Chow eschewed plain and practical underwear to hide her modesty under her sheer dress. This polka dot bustier turned a 'meh' in to 'wow'.

Don't be afraid to pop
If you're going for colour, you may as well go for it big time. Follow Kirsten Dunst's lead and keep everything else minimal and understated.

Pile on your pastels
The more stylish Hilton sister, Nicky, showed she was ahead of the spring curve by mixing a plethora of pastels for a super-chic da

Take the edge off a vampish evening look with soft, daytime accessories
Velvet and satin were on the menu for Stella McCartney when she attended Kate Moss's birthday dinner earlier this week. But the ever-stylish fashion designer knows better than to overkill the look with evening accessories, opting instead for a soft grey daytime clutch and chunky, dusky pink scarf.

Wear something white at night
When red wine is in the equation it's easy to reach for black, but take a tip from fashion forward Tilda who stood out from the crowd in head-to-toe snow at the W Magazine pre-Golden Globes party.

Double bag it
Why take one handbag, when you can take two? This is a trend we're starting to see more and more so make like Whitney Port and multiply your arm candy.

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Trending: masculine shoes

From brogues to brothel creepers, it's a man's world as far as footwear for ladies is concerned.

 Ashley Olsen steps out in Prada's hit brothel creepers...

 Karl Lagerfeld swaps the skirt suits and heels for trousers and tough-looking brogues for Chanel autumn/winter 2011.

 Chloë Sevigny always does the boy/girl-dressing thing so well - and this mac-and-Chelsea-boots combo is no exception.

 Suited-and-brogued-up models backstage at Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2011.

 Blinging brogues at Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2011.

 The always-stylish Olivia Palermo favours velvet slippers for a night out.

 King of tailoring Paul Smith gives his womenswear line a masculine spin with brogues.

 A boyish loafer plays down an otherwise dressy ensemble at Stella McCartney autumn/winter 2011.

 ...and featured fabulous leopard-spot slippers in The Row autumn/winter 2011, the collection she designs with her twin sister, Mary-Kate.

Singer V V Brown wears her lace-ups with cute socks.

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You know you make me wanna pout: New season make-up

Make-up by Christian Dior . Capture Totale Radiance Restoring Serum foundation in 'Linen', £62. Glowing Color Powder blush in 'Sunkissed Cinnamon', £28. 3 Couleurs eyeshadow in 'Smoky', £32. Precision eyeliner in 'Black', £23.50. Rouge Dior lipstick in 'Angélique Beige', £22.30
White cotton and mesh polka-dot Dress, £1,175, by Stella McCartney, London

Make-up by Giorgio Armani, from Selfridges (020 7318 2486). Luminous Make-Up base, £33. Luminous Silk foundation in 'Ivory', £33. Sheer blush in 'Sand', £29. Brow Defining pencil in 'Brown', £17. Rouge d'Armani lipstick in 'Rouge 401', £23.Maestro eyeshadow Quatro in 'Desert', £39.50
Red sinamay Bow, £330, philiptreacy.co.uk . Black silk-jersey Dress with patent-leather appliqué polka-dots, £1,150, by davidkoma.com

Make-up by Yves Saint Laurent, from Selfridges , Top Secrets Flash Radiance Skincare Brush base, £36.Touche Eclat concealer in '1.5', £24.50. Teint Radiance foundationin 'No 2 Blond', £29.50. Pure Chromatics Wet and Dry eyeshadow in '4', £37. Singulier Nuit Blanche Waterproof mascara in 'Vibrant Brown', £22. Volupté Sheer Candy lipstick in 'Juicy Grapefruit', £21
Black synthetic-hair bow, £26, by Hershesons, from asos.com . Black silk Dress, £700, by Giles, from Dover Street Market, London W1. Pearl and diamond Earrings, £7,000, by Boodles, London W1 

Make-up by Chanel (020 7493 3836) Le Blanc de Chanel Sheer Illuminating base, £28. Teint Innocence foundation in 'Clair', £34. Soleil Tan de Chanel Sheer Illuminating Fluid bronzer in 'Sunkissed', £30. Illusion d'Ombre Long Wear Luminous eyeshadow in 'Emerveillé', £22.50. Rouge Coco Shine lipstick in 'Boy', £22.50. Le Vernis nail colour in' Black Velvet', £17.
Black mink, rabbit and polyester-net Hat, £370, by Stephen Jones, London WC2 

Make-up by maccosmetics.co.uk Prep & Prime highlighter in 'Bright Forecast', £17. Select Moisture Cover concealer in 'NW15', £13.50. Mac Pro Paint Stick eyeshadow in 'Pure White', £15.50. Lipstick in 'Russian Red', £13.50. Lip pencil in 'Cherry', £10.50. False Lashes mascara in 'False Black', £17.50. Nail lacquer in 'Shirelle', £9.
Black onyx and platinum Ring, £2,285, by Chanel Fine Jewellery, London W1 (020 7499 0005). White cotton-mix Shirt with black bow-tie, £25, by next.co.uk .
Model: Polina Sova at Union; Make-up: Natsumi Watanabe at Caren; Hair: Adrian Clark, using GHD Gold Series Styler; Nails: Glenis Baptiste at My Management; Make-up: assistant Yae Seno; Photographer's Assistants: Lee Whittaker and Nile Kennedy; Fashion Assistant: Frankie Graddon.

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Fashion trend report: What to ditch and what to keep for the new season in pics

Showing you which summer trends are out and what they are being replaced with from the autumn/winter 2011 collections.

OUT: Denim, as seen at Derek Lam spring/summer 2011.
IN: Leather, as seen at Louis Vuitton, Marios Schwab and Ralph Lauren autumn/winter 2011.
For spring/summer denim took on a grown up feel making it a wardrobe staple, but for the winter season it is leather that is the must-have.

OUT : Fringing, as seen at Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2011.
IN: Fur, as seen at Donna Karan, Michael Kors and Valentino autumn/winter 2011.
Fur was seen on almost every autumn/winter catwalk, replacing the fringing trend which covered every surface in the collections earlier in year.

OUT: Tropical prints, as seen at Stella McCartney spring/summer 2011.
IN: Checks, as seen at MaxMara, Rag & Bone and Thakoon autumn/winter 2011.
Checks came in all shapes and sizes, be they tartan, houndstooth or Maasai inspired, for autumn/winter.

 

OUT: Headscarves, as seen at Roksanda Ilincic spring/summer 2011.
IN: Hats, as seen at Lanvin, Hermes and Moschino autumn/winter 2011.
The whymsical gypsy girl from the spring/summer season was nowhere to be seen on the autumn/winter catwalks. Instead hats came down the runways in all shapes and sizes.

 

OUT : Big hair, as seen at Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2011.
IN : Slick ponytails, as seen at Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Christopher Kane autumn/winter 2011.
Put away your crimpers and go for the slicked back look with this season's ponytail. Perhaps the easiest - and least expensive - of the trends to master!

OUT : Bianca Jagger, as seen at Yves Saint Laurent spring/summer 2011.
IN: Twiggy, as seen at Burberry, Prada and Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2011.
Flouncy disco inspired clothes may have had their last dance, and are promptly being replaced by graphic, 60's shifts.

OUT: Maxi-dresses, as seen at Erdem spring/summer 2011.
IN : Tunic and trousers, as seen at Diane von Furtenburg, Michael Kors and Osman autumn/winter 2011.
Longline tunic tops, paired with trousers is the new approach to evening wear, so store away your maxis in the coming months.

OUT: Nude, as seen at Roland Mouret spring/summer 2011.
IN: Gold, as seen at Stella McCartney, Dolce & Gabbana and Balmain autumn/winter 2011.
A high shine opulence gave the nude trend a glamourous gold reinvention.

OUT: White, as seen at Dolce & Gabbana spring/summer 2011.
IN: Black, as seen at Alexander Wang and Chanel autumn/winter 2011.
The winter months normally see a greater number of darker clothes, however this season many of the designers went fully back to black.

OUT: Zebra print, as seen at Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2011.
IN: Snakeskin, as seen at Gucci, Chloe and Prada autumn/winter 2011.
Keeping it on the wild side, designers have replaced the swathes of zebra print with coloured snakeskin, be it as a detail on accessories or a head-to-toe look.

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