Left to right: McQ and Burberry
Attention! For instant promotion up the fashion ranks, simply advance to your nearest army surplus store. For this long-standing masculine trend invaded womenswear this season, no more so than in McQ's opening section of two-toned soldier-girl outfits shot through with "Black Watch" tartan, ceremonially-high spit-and-polished boots and furry-epauletted submariner knits. After the uniform came some crazily over-the-top flower-strewn ballet dresses. LL
Will it work? Only for the brave: and don't be too literal.
Where else? Burberry, Belstaff, Christopher Raeburn, and the beavers at Temperley
4/5
Left to right: Stella McCartney and Giles
Swish, swish, swish, here come the skirts. How feminine, how flirty - and how modern, thanks to that larger-than-life marbling and obligingly architectural duchesse satin. This is the Mad Men Skirt for women who normally prefer something harder edged and just a bit arty. McCartney had other mould-breakers up her sleeves, too. Think lace is too twee ? Try a thick-as-crochet tangerine weave appliquéd onto a flesh-coloured mesh column dress and await the flashbulbs. Coming to a red carpet soon. LA
Will it work? Yes, this concept suits pretty much everyone, but you'll need a big ball(sy) heel. Ballerina length's the way to go.
Where else? Roksanda Ilincic, Giles, Emilia Wickstead, Mary Katrantzou
3/5
A generously-proportioned jumper that ends sub-buttock will a) keep you warm and b) act as a midwinter-mini. This a heady combo particularly well utilised in Jonathan Saunders' acid-coloured, Japanese-equestrian (it's a long story) collection, was one of this weeks finest. This big knit incorporated check, another strong trend in London. LL
Will it work? Everywhere, and for nothing: simply pinch a man's jumper and pin up the sleeves.
Where else? Christopher Kane (overlayed with mesh wires), Mary Katrantzou (embroidered with star-dust crystal) Mulberry (monstrous) and Acne (long and lime)
4/5
Why should C18th fops have all the fun? We've secretly loved this fabric for years, so allow us a moment of joy because it's everywhere. And no one cuts a sharper pair of trousers than this man. If London can't quite decide whether to keep it skinny or experiment with a kick flare that starts at the knee, consider it a bonus. In the world's first parliamentary democracy, no one trouser shape should dominate. Let's hear it for proportional representation. LA
Will it work? Yes, in a similar way to marmite. You either love this or hate it. But however much you adore brocade, limit yourself to one piece at a time time. Keep the rest low-key and you can wear this day to night.
Where else? Michael van der Ham, Temperley, Kinder Aggugini
4/5
Keeping warm was on the brains of many, although not the poor loves risking hypothermia in their fashionable spring jackets. A pragmatic padded coat simply doesn't cut the street snappers' mustard - yet. Peter Pilotto's fabulously quilted printed jackets for next winter offered warmth and style in spades. Some were prettified with a little frilled hem, and teamed with cocktail dresses and convincingly sold as evening wear - music to the camera slaves' ears. PL
Will it work? Day time, night time - it will work overtime.
Where else? Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, JW Anderson
3.5/5
Left to right: Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood
Boys don't make passes at girls who wear glasses. Not even if they're worn with as much vim as they were at Paul Smith? Bespectacled models in sharp tailor jackets and cigarette pants cut an appealing figure. Marc Jacobs and J Crew also sent out girls with four eyes instead of two in New York last week. Clearly, not seeing, um, clearly is cool. PL
Will it work? If your vision is less than 20/20.
Where else? Vivienne Westwood
3/5
Take a pair of normal hips then amplify them with padding. It shouldn't work but in Berardi's hands it looked elegant and oh so flattering. Dresses and jackets were padded with horse-hair and lined with silk chiffon (no animals were harmed in the making of these clothes, we were promised, although a few brains may have been sorely taxed: one dress comprised 78 pieces and every single seam on every garment was curved) This is how to wear a peplum - not as a Dallas-meets-Pat Butcher soggy tribute but as a piece of silky sculpture. LA
Left to right: Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique
We're talking really long - not just below the knee, but right past the lower shin. That creates a lean sinuous line that brings to mind white Russian emigres or slinky Thirties illustrations from artists such as Christian Berard - unless they're Ilincic's full-circle skirts, which brings to mind pictures of the young Queen Elizabeth in the early Fifties. But Ilincic reared back from the precipice of parody by teaming her languid lengths with blouson tops or big glittery tweed blazers, and occasionally trimmed her pencil skirts with the deep ruffle hem that has become one of her trademarks. As usual, it's her colour mixes that intrigued: claret with deep violet or turquoise. LA
Will it work? Especially if you're tall and slender and game for a five-inch heel. Ilincic jacked her models up on canary-yellow ones and got herself a statement look.
Where else? Jonathan Saunders, Topshop, JW Anderson
3/5
Take a pair of normal hips then amplify them with padding. It shouldn't work but in Berardi's hands it looked elegant and oh so flattering. Dresses and jackets were padded with horse-hair and lined with silk chiffon (no animals were harmed in the making of these clothes, we were promised, although a few brains may have been sorely taxed: one dress comprised 78 pieces and every single seam on every garment was curved) This is how to wear a peplum - not as a Dallas-meets-Pat Butcher soggy tribute but as a piece of silky sculpture. LA
Will it work? Yes, for those who like their Forties updated.
Where else? Stella McCartney, Mary Katrantzou, McQ, PPQ, Burberrry
4/5
Floral is a spring-trend staple that tends to wither in winter. Not this time: Erdem was London's florist-in-chief via his trademark one-two of neatly-demure silhouettes heaped with flower upon flower upon flower. From the floral black lace overlays to the blurry 3D-effect (without the glasses on) turquoise and yellow on silk (with blue lace flowery, arms) this was a show to rival Chelsea. Even his shoes were flower bedecked. LL
Will it work? There's no reason why florals shouldn't be hardy fashion perennials.
Where else? Giles, Temperley London, Christopher Kane, McQ, Maarten Van Der Horst
3/5
