Milan Fashion Week: Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2012

Covered-up control at Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2012 collection

 Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta is the most fastidious of Milan fashion houses, rigorous in everything from the perfect symmetry of its trademark thick-knit Intrecciato leather bags, to the edict that its assistants prepare the catwalk wearing socks so as not to sully its perfect whiteness.

Next winter's collection maintained that rigour in the utterly precise tailoring of its dark, masculine wool jackets with matte horizontal swooshes on the hip. An often black or drably-dark collection of dresses with only subtle decorative detailing - a restrained ruffle here, a pearly flash there - undulated precisely around the bodies inside them. Mary-Janes and shoe-boots were worn over calf-socks pulled up to the same half-way point between knee and ankle where trousers ended. When there was ostentation, it was strictly disciplined - a velvet floral dress seemed to have been treated to suck the vibrancy from its palette. The one more playful moment was a joey-pouch front-only peplum. More muted than last season's wonderful riot of a collection, next winter's Bottega woman is one of utterly elegant severity.

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The autumn/winter 2011 hotlist

The top 10 names to watch for the autumn/winter 2011 season.

Mad Men meets Banana Republic
The hold that Mad Men exerts on fashion continues: Bottega Veneta's new twinsets seem to be made with Betty Draper in mind, while Fendi's checks and frill collars could slip seamlessly into Peggy Olsen's office wardrobe. But for the real thing, Janie Bryant, the show's award-winning costume designer, has teamed up with Banana Republic to create a line of tailoring and accessories so you too can channel the elegance of the 1960s. Look out for the dress, £110, shoes, £89, and necklace, £39.50.

 Clear your diary for November 17 and the emergence of this year's H&M tie-up with Versace. Be prepared to camp out for the studded leather jacket or floral belted shift.

 Fiona Paxton The jewellery designer has come up with a diffusion line of 30 pieces for John Lewis , available this month. Paxton brings her geometric patterns to necklaces and bracelets inspired by the flappers of the 1920s. From £45.

Postmodernism
Discover what Postmodernism really means at the V&A in London as the museum plays host to 'Postmodernism: Style and Subversion 1970-1990'. More than 250 objects relating to architecture, music and fashion will be on display, from Memphis furniture to Robert Rauschenberg paintings and the magnificently zany maternity dress (pictured) designed in 1979 by Jean-Paul Goude and Antonio Lopez for Grace Jones. September 24 to January 15.

Grenson women's collection
We have been coveting Grenson's men's boots and brogues for some time, and at last the classic British bootmaker brand has adapted its shoes for girls, creating slimmer versions of its two-tone brogues, chukka and Chelsea boots, £195, available at my-wardrobe.com.

Katie Hillier for Loewe
Katie Hillier The brilliant accessories designer is working with the Spanish luxury house Loewe this season, her quirky animal motifs making the Amazona and Ida bags even more of a must-have. From £895 for the blue Ida satchel.

Michael van der Ham
The Dutch designer's collection of trousers, tops and dresses for Topshop , made using his signature collage technique, goes on sale on September 17 - just in time for fashion week. From £120.

MW by Matthew Williamson
Matthew Williamson's newly launched diffusion line, MW, is a more relaxed take on his main collection. The cocoon blanket coats, vibrant checks and playful prints are sure to attract a new cool girl to the Williamson world. Coat, £506, jumper dress, £116, scarf, £116 available at my-wardrobe.com.

Orla Kiely for People Tree
After the success of Emma Watson for People Tree, the Fairtrade label has teamed up with Orla Kiely for winter. The designer's signature kooky prints and girlish knits are all there, with teacup motifs, 1950s prom dresses and tailored trenches. Cardigan, £140, polo-neck, £35, skirt, £70, belt, £35; red dress, £85.

Masculine chic at Whistles
This is the season to borrow from the boys. Sharp suiting is the most stylish way to go and it is worth spending a little bit extra on Whistles ' new tailoring collection that has been created using a men's block by the former Gieves & Hawkes tailor Frederik Willems. The boxy shape of the jackets works perfectly with slim-cut trousers or shorts, and there are beautiful wool fabrics from English and Italian mills, too. Jacket, £195, shorts, £95.

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Fashion trend report: What to ditch and what to keep for the new season

Showing you which summer trends are out and what they are being replaced with from the autumn/winter 2011 collections.

OUT : Ballet, as seen at Chloe spring/summer 2011.
IN : Fetish, as seen at Alexander McQueen, Mark Fast and Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2011.
Hard edged latex and leather have replaced the soft, flowing sheer fabrics seen at the spring/summer collections.

OUT : Colour brights, as seen at Jil Sander spring/summer 2011.
IN: Jewel colours, as seen at Haider Ackermann, Bottega Veneta and Ralph Lauren autumn/winter 2011.
Put away your paintbox brights. Colour blocking takes a more grown up path for autumn/winter with deeper, more muted tones.

OUT: '70s as seen at Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2011.
IN: '40s as seen at Sportmax, Miu Miu and Donna Karan autumn/winter 2011.
Disco fever in pyschedelic colours dominated the spring/summer catwalks. For the winter months 1940's style lady-like dresses are à la mode.

OUT : Orange, as seen at Calvin Klein spring/summer 2011.
IN: Red, as seen at Antonio Berardi, Roksanda Ilincic and Burberry autumn/winter 2011.
Vibrant orange has been outed by a far more approachable red - wear yours in any hue; from postbox to burgundy.

OUT: Oriental prints, as seen at John Galliano spring/summer 2011.
IN: Patchwork, as seen at Etro, Mary Katrantzou and Dries van Noten autumn/winter 2011.
The elegant Far Eastern feel of spring/summer's prints has been replaced with home-made effect of patchwork prints.

OUT: Oversize menswear, as seen at Dries van Noten spring/summer 2011.
IN : Streamlined androgyny, as seen at Ralph Lauren and Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2011.
Gone the slouchy loose-fitting masculine tailoring from summer replace by a more slimline, fitted, approach to men's tailoring for the fall collections.

OUT: Pleats, as seen at Nicole Farhi spring/summer 2011.
IN: Pailletes, as seen at Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs and Prada autumn/winter 2011.
Pailettes were the adornment of choice for many designers this year leaving very little room for other fine details such as pleating.

OUT: Stripes, as seen at Prada spring/summer 2011.
IN: Spots, as seen at Lanvin, Diane von Furstenburg and Marc Jacobs autumn/winter 2011.
A huge number of the autumn/winter collections chose the playful polka dot, leaving the stripe behind in the summer months.

OUT : Trench coats, as seen at Burberry spring/summer 2011.
IN: Cocoon coats, as seen at Yves Saint Laurent, Jil Sander and Loewe autumn/winter 2011.
The classic trench gets the boot, replaced by this season's model: the 'cocoon' coat with structured sleeves and a voluminous sillhouette.

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Emma Watson goes for gold

Emma Watson in Bottega Veneta at the New York premiere of Harry Potter And The Deathly Hallows: Part 2. For the New York premiere of the last Harry Potter film, The Deathly Hallows Part 2 , the 21-year-old stormed the red carpet in a beautiful, voluminous gown by Italian label Bottega Veneta.

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